Manuscript Journal with Drawings
Period Costume DesignWith Artistic Hand Sketches1931Manuscript chronology of fashion and Costume, with pencil drawings, of period costumes spanning history from Ancient Egypt to the late nineteenth century.
Qto. 30 pages in manuscript with wide margins, to which are affixed 16 sketch drawings. Berlin, 1931. Berufsschule für Schneiderinnen [School for Seamstresses]. The work of an astute and artistic student, Frälein Margarete Gericke, who attended the School for Seamstresses in Berlin 1931. All text is in German. Exercise journal with grid leaves for drawing, blue paper boards. Covers faded, name label tattered, otherwise in very good condition, internally crisp with immaculate drawings, each protected with tissue guard. Together with two certificates of completion following each semester, issued and stamped by the school, signed by the director and educator, 31 March and 30 August respectively, measuring 21x15cm. A further five school certificates from secondary education also present, five folio leaves completed in manuscript, signed, dated and stamped. The journal and certificates are housed in a large portfolio, 23x36cm.

Fourteen historical eras, each with one or two remarkably elegant and detailed sketch drawings of women’s period costume, placed alongside a manuscript description of its features, fabrics, and the like. Corsets, bonnets, dramatic accessories, fine embellishments, and luxurious fabrics can be seen throughout history in this unique chronicle of period clothing.

Some of the periods examined and illustrated include Egyptian costume as early as 5000 BC, richly patterned silk gowns of the Byzantine Empire, fine and ornate dresses of the Middle Ages in Europe, aristocratic court dresses worn at the turn of the eighteenth century, the exquisite high fashion known as Rococo brought about by the French in the Age of Enlightenment, the informal revolutionary styles which welcomed the nineteenth century, and finally representations of the Victorian Era.

 

Rare Latvian Passport with Ration Stamps
Female Polish Nanny 14-Years Old
WWI Ephemeral Document
From German Occupied Baltic Region
During 8-Month Rule
Under Treaty of Brest-Litovsk
Riga 1918
Riga, 30 October 1918. One Armeepass World War One internal (domestic) passport issued by German authorities, for a young Polish girl named Munssafia Aspaluvicz, born in Riga in 1904, complete with her photograph and finger print. Stamped at Riga during the short period of German rule of the Baltic regions under the Treaty of Brest-Litovsk. Text is in two languages: German (as the official language) and Latvian (for the passport holder). Two double leafs, patterned blue cardstock, with Imperial German motif to front and rear. Passport measures approximately 9 x 14 cm. Covers age-toned, rear leaf loosely holding, otherwise in good and original condition.

This “Armeepass” was issued in 1918 by German Military authorities in Riga. The bearer is Munssafia Aspaluvicz, a 14-years old female born in 1904, in the city of Riga. The front cover of the passport requires the person’s “Abstammung” [Ancestry], in this case indicated as “Polnisch” [Polish]. her “muttersprache” [mother tongue] is also Polish. Her “beruf” or occupation is entered as “Kindermädche” [nanny].

As indicated on the second page of the passport, as a resident of Riga, her rights were governed by the Livland administration, which at that time was a part of the Czarist Russia occupied by the Germans.

[The Governorate of Livonia, or Livland as seen here, was part of the Russian Empire and existed from 1796 when the Riga Governorate was renamed the Governorate of Livonia, to the end of the Great War in 1918. At that time, it was split between the newly independent states of Latvia and Estonia.]

Some historically significant and fascinating wartime details are illustrated on this ephemeral document.

The Germans issued these special passports uniquely for the Latvian residents of the Baltic regions.

They were made in two languages: German, which was deemed as the official language during occupation, and Latvian, for the sake of the passport holder. The German eagle is prominent on the front, along with the word Armeepass. The German eagle emblem is seen again on the rear cover, this one encircled in black bearing a patriotic phrase.

The verso of the passport is rather fascinating, as it bears two ink stamps “Karten-Ausgabe” confirming that rationed provisions were provided to Miss Aspaluvicz. Food typically given included bread, soup, and corn.

[During German occupation, each person received a ration of food, which was just barely enough to ward off hunger, and certainly not enough for children to develop healthily, nor adults to maintain their full coherence or capacity. People residing in rural areas fared better as they were able to produce and hide food, whereas those in the cities were dependent on rations alone and many died of starvation. In these times, bread was more valuable than gold. In fact, people would often barter their gold, silver, and even jewelry, just for a chunk of bread.]

Issued by the German military during WWI occupation of the Baltics, essentially taken from the Russian Empire, this example features the following ink stamps:

“Passkommando dei baltischen Lande” [Pass Command for Baltic Lands]
“Gemeldef Polizeiwache VIII” [Reported at police station VIII]
“Peerakstits Riga Polizijas VIII” [Stamped by Riga Police division VIII]
“Verpflegungsamt der Stadt Riga” [Riga Catering Office]: This confirms the rationed food items given.

The bylaws of the German government are printed in both German and Latvian. The regulations list punishments ranging from five to ten years for a person who is found without a passport, or carrying a forged passport. There were also penalties for anyone who did not announce the loss of their passport within 24 hours.

As seen here, personal information for identity was completed in manuscript, including the holder’s name, birthplace, place of residence, age, height, occupation, nationality, and so forth. A finger print in ink was also made directly onto the passport’s inner leaf. A photograph was mounted within. The passport number was shown in the photograph, and also written in manuscript to the front cover and within the passport.

Similar passports were issued by the German government for the various territories occupied temporarily by their military during the First World War, including Lithuania, Latvia, Courland (now part of Latvia), Estonia, Belarus, and territories from Poland.

On 3 March 1918, the Treaty of Brest-Litovsk was signed, giving the Baltic countries to Germany. Bolshevik Russia accepted the loss of the Livland Governorate to the Germans. That the present internal passport was issued by the occupying German authorities in October 1918, yet one month after the passport was issued, owing to the Armistice with Germany of 11 November 1918, Germany would be forced to renounce that treaty, as did Russia. Latvia, with Riga as its capital city, thus declared its independence on 18 November 1918. Interestingly, later stamps in this passport date to April and October 1919, and even in 1920.

During the Great War, Germans established a military government, the Supreme Command of All German Forces in the East (Oberbefehlshaber der gesamten Deutschen Streitkräfte im Osten – known simply as “Ober Ost”), to control its occupied territories. These appointed officials ruled Lithuania, Latvia (Courland), and the Bialystok-Grodno military territories with an iron hand during the war. Among its many decrees, was the subdivision of the three territories into smaller districts for total control over all social and economic aspects of life. Families and farms were often divided and travel restricted to such an extent that people could not attend nearby schools or churches. The restriction frequently prevented farmers from taking their produce to market, destroying commerce and their source of income.

 

Passport Lot
19th Century Travels to Russia
WWI German Occupation Passes
Rare Yiddish Passport
Eastern Europe
1846-1969
Russia, Serbia, Germany, Lithuania, England, France, 1846-1969. Lot of 15 unique passports from various countries, featuring the occupied Baltics during the Great War, nineteenth century travellers to Russia, some notable names, and assorted matters of interest. Some were issued for one specific journey, others for longer term open travel, with examples concerning citizenship and immigrant travel. These documents vary greatly in format, including early and large single leaf printed declarations completed and signed in manuscript, to modern day wallet-sized hardcover portfolios. Together with a poem stamped by the British Passport Control office at Budapest, titled “A Morning in the Life of a Passport Control Officer.” Some creasing and age-toning, the earliest passport with professionally repaired folds, otherwise the lot in very good condition overall, and containing a few examples of certain specimens seldom procured today.

Unique design motifs, security elements, signatures and stamps, together these official and historical documents form a wide-reaching study of travel, including incidents of limitation on domestic movement, international travel freedom, and collaboration between nations for open borders. A fascinating collection touching upon a subject which is so prevalent on the minds of citizens all around the globe today.

The earliest examples, four from the nineteenth century, include a very specific courier passport dated 1846 relating to Portuguese government affairs, a well-known clergy and author who travelled on the continent for 10 years, going as far as Russia in 1875, and a British subject who travelled to Russia in 1897.

A “Passport de Courrier” issued 23 November 1846 in Paris, permitting a Portuguese courier who was carrying despatches to the Portuguese legation in Madrid, Spain, clear passage through France, specifically by way of Bordeaux and Bayonne. The holder’s name is Eduoard de Cabral, a Portuguese subject. Text is in French. The verso of the leaf bears several manuscript authorizations and stamps, enabling us to follow his journey from Paris 23 November to Bayonne 4 December, and arriving at Madrid on the 10th. The final entry on this passport is a stamp of the Legacâo de S.M. [Su Majestad] Fidelissima F.M. Madrid, annotated and signed by the Secretary of the Legation, Vasco Pinto de Bahemio. This passport has seen some professional repair at the folds and is delicately holding at others.

[Incidentally, this passport is quite contemporary to the passport issued to Washington Irving by Spanish officials in Madrid approximately 6 months earlier on August 6, 1846, when he had completed his term of service as Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of Spain, the document states being issued for his return to his home country. Irving left Spain much to the regret of the royal family and ministers on the eve of a violent uprising in the country.]

Also from the nineteenth century is a passport for Reverend and well-known author John Aldwell Nicholson (1830-1902), Rector of New Chapel and Prebendary in Cathedral of Cashel, valid also for his wife Caroline Editha (née Hunt 1846-1932), to travel the continent together, featuring numerous stamps and annotations from places visited, for example Sweden, Italy, and Russia. Issued in London, 10 August 1865, this official document features the stamped signature of John Russell, 1st Earl Russell, who was serving his second term as Prime Minister of the United Kingdom, and steel engraved armorial illustrations to header and footer. Mounted and folded into a leather passport holder made by W.J.Admas of Fleet Street, with a secure fold-over flap, embedded pencil holder and note paper which contains some Russian consular stamps and manuscript authorizations as well as Nicholson’s assorted notes. The bearer’s name is tooled in gilt.

A large single-leaf passport featuring 2 Russian stamps, issued in London on 18 August 1897 Alexander Kidd, a “British subject travelling on the continent” who went to Russia. A large textual ink stamp of the Imperial Russian General Consulate is signed and dated in the original by the General Consul. A blue stamp also in Russian text, with date inscribed in manuscript, was made in Kronstadt. This document features the stamped signature of Lord Salisbury, Prime Minister of the United Kingdom, and steel engraved armorial illustrations to header and footer. It is neatly folded into a purpose-made black leather pocket fold for the traveller’s convenience and to ensure preservation of the document.

We also find a German certificate of citizenship, “Heimatschein” [Homeland Certificate] issued 14 Mai 1856 to a person whose surname is Daitz, who had evidently arrived in Germany on 26 November 1834. The numbered document being #20 and the date is approaching mid-year, which suggests that not many of these were granted annually.

We also find two interesting WWI passports concerning German rule in the Baltics.

One exceedingly scarce domestic “Ober Ost” Yiddish passport issued at Wilkomierz [Ukmerge] in Lithuania 14 February 1917 for a man named Feines Kesnik, born in June 1870, living under German rule during the Great War. Text is in two languages: German (as the official language) and Yiddish, in Hebrew lettering (for the passport holder of Jewish nationality). The German eagle is prominent on the front, along with ‘PAS’ in both Hebrew and German letters. This is an internal (domestic) passport issued by German authorities, complete with his photograph and finger print. The bylaws of the German government appear in Yiddish. Punishments range from five to ten years for a person found without a passport, or carrying a forged passport. There were also penalties for anyone who did not announce the loss of their passport within 24 hours. Issued by the German military during WWI occupation of Lithuania, at that time being part of the Russian Empire, this example features the ephemeral stamps of the “Verwaltungsgebiet Litauen” [Lithuania administrative region] and “Vilkmerges Karo Kommandantur” [Wilkomierz Military Command].

The Yiddish passports are exceedingly scare as most of the Jewish population had been exiled some time earlier. Also, immediately after Germany withdrew from the area in 1919, all the passports that could be obtained, were destroyed. In May 1915, During World War I, the Russian authorities expelled most the Jews living in Lithuania. A large number of them were exiled into Russia while others found a refuge in Vilna and its vicinity. Vilkomir [Ukmerge] was taken by the Germans, and the remaining Jews from the region congregated there. The German Ober Ost passport was issued in 1917-1918 by the German occupation authorities for those people who spent the war years in Lithuania.

One rare Latvian passport (Armeepass) issued at Riga 7 February 1918 for a Jewish woman named Chaja Kurschan, gb (née) Lemmer, born in Schaulen [Siauliai], 22 October 1860, living under German rule during the Great War. There are two ration stamps made to rear of the passport, one “Brotkarte” alloting her a bread card and one “Karten-Ausgabe” confirming that the ration was provided. The front cover of the passport requires the person’s “Abstammung” [Ancestry], in this case indicated as “Jüdishch” [Jewish]. Her “muttersprache” [mother tongue] is also jidd. Her “beruf” or occupation is entered as “ehefrau” [wife].

This is an internal (domestic) passport issued by German authorities, complete with her photograph and finger print. Text is in two languages: German (as the official language) and Latvian (for the passport holder). Stamped at Riga during the short period of German rule of the Baltic regions under the Treaty of Brest-Litovsk. As indicated on the second page of the passport, as a resident of Siauliai, her rights were governed by the Kovno administration, which at that time was a part of the Czarist Russia occupied by the Germans (Kovno is now Kaunas, Lithuania). The bylaws of the German government are printed in both German and Latvian. The regulations list punishments ranging from five to ten years for a person who is found without a passport, or carrying a forged passport. There were also penalties for anyone who did not announce the loss of their passport within 24 hours.

The lot continues yielding variety, largely centered around travel to Eastern European nations and Russia. Following is a summary in chronological order:

A Russian passport, in Cyrillic script, seemingly issued at Bessarabia, on 24 April of 1902 or 1903, featuring several travel stamps, the earliest one being that of the Kiev City Police, dated 1903. Entries continue until 1920. The passport holder was born in 1877, and may have been a member of clergy. Page 9 contains a lengthy manuscript entry signed in manuscript and ratified with a Roman Catholic ink stamp “kiiovensis ecclesiae”. Blue cloth covers detached at spine.
[The issuing of this passport is contemporary to the horrendous anti-Jewish “Kishinev pogrom”, a barbaric 2-day massacre during which nearly 50 Jews were killed, 92 were severely wounded and 500 were slightly injured, 700 houses destroyed, and 600 stores were pillaged. It took place on April 19/21 [O.S. April 6/8] 1903 in Kishinev (modern Chisinau in Moldova), then the capital of the Bessarabia Governorate of the Russian Empire.]

A lovely foldout British passport issued by the General Consul at Paris 14 April 1920, for a female named Bessie Robinson. This passport was renewed after 2 years, and 2 young children added to the same passport in 1923. Renewals continued to validate until 1930. Two (2) and five (5) shilling consular stamps confirm each transaction. This is a heavy cardstock leaf folding neatly into blue passport portfolio boards with armorial gilt motif to front.

French passport dated 23 December 1921, given to a merchant born at Bagdag, and then resident of Bombay, Richard Jacob Cessy, issued at London and valid only for one single return trip to France.

A Serbian “Emigrant’s Travel Document”, with text in French also, “passport d’émigrant” [Immigrant Passport], issued at Batchka à Sombor [Sombor in Backa], 5 March 1928, one year before the region would be incorporated into the province of Danube Banovina. A multi-page booklet style passport with red paper boards, armorial motif to front, with the bearer’s information completed in manuscript, and featuring his photograph. The recipient of this passport is a Friedrich Hetzel, born in, and then still a resident of Sove [Söve], in Balikesir, Turkey. He was in Germany March 1928, specifically in Bremen on 7.4.1928 and also in Belgrade, Serbia, the same year. Page 8 features an entry suggesting he required permission for a “voyage en carriage’ for part of his journey. Stamps indicate that he was ultimately headed for Canada on 5 April 1928, and arrived at Halifax on the 17th.

“Deutsches Reich Fremdenpass / Fremdenpass Passeport pour Étrangers” [German Reich Foreigners passport], with text in German and French, featuring many travel stamps. The passport holder is Fritz Gottlieb whose nationality is indicated as “Staatlos ohne Berut” [stateless, Beirut]. Issued at Berlin, valid one year from 18 December 1934, and renewed for another year, with this passport, Gottlieb travelled to the Republic of Czechoslovakia as we see stamps from August and Stamped 13 Zari (September) 1934. This was during the nation’s independent period from 1918-1938. He visited Hungary in the same month, which is memorialized with several lovely consular stamps reading “Magyar Királyság” [Kingdom of Hungary]. He also travelled to Dubrovnic, Croatia, in 1934, Spain and Portugal in 1935. The passport was renewed in 1936, and certain entries suggests that this man settled in Lisbon. A pleasure trip to France, of only 10 days, was approved later in 1955, noting that work was not permitted abroad.

A simple cardstock passport, in Russian and German, issued 23 December 1947 at Markneukirchen in Saxony for a female, Elsbeth Wilke (née Dölling), born in 1920. With stamps of the policing body of Oelsnitz, the city some twenty minutes away.

A 1956 German passport, in green boards, given to a Gunter Hermann Erich Stolle who was born in Berlin in 1925.

A 2-year German passport issued 1985 for an Elise Andretzky born in 1912, aged 73 and evidently still desirous of travel.

A German passport issued 1969 to a Luise Petzet born in 1907.

 

Rare Slavery Document
Bill of Exchange
Funds Paid to Chirurgeon Charlouis
Signed by Suriname Governor Van Lansberge
Involving Wilhelm Eduard Ruhmann
and Surinaamsche Bank in Paramaribo
1865
Suriname, 15 August 1865. Wisselbrief [Bill of Exchange, Promissory Note]. A numbered (278) and printed document granting financial compensation to a slave owner in Suriname, by the Dutch government, signed in the original by numerous parties including the Gouverneur de Kolonie Suriname [Governor of Suriname] Van Lansberge, the Administrateur van Financienvan Het Ministerie van Kolonien te s-Gravenhague [Finance Administrator for the Ministry of the Colonies, at The Hague], and the recipient of the funds who is not only a slave owner but well-known chirurgeon A.D. Charlouis. Text is in Dutch. With steel engraved colonial coat of arms, official ink stamps, the embossed stamp of the “Klein Kolonie Suriname” government. Single leaf measuring approximately 26,5 x 13 cm. Very good condition, beautifully preserved, a scarce and historical slavery document with notable signature.

The present document is interesting, as is was made almost two years after the official abolition of slave ownership in Suriname, which reveals the lengthy time period over which this process was stretched. The government’s primary concern was not the freedom of the enslaved people; it was the preservation of the plantation economy, lest there be a mass exodus of workers leaving the plantations. The latter was cited as the reason and justification for the mandatory employment contract which accompanied ‘free status’ of a slave.

Chirurgeon Andries Daniel Charlouis (Emden, Lower Saxony 1820 – Paramaribo, Suriname 1880) is the recipient of this compensation. Historical evidence reveals that he had more slaves than what is represented with this document, and that he released them gradually. He was well-known in the field of medical science, particularly for his studies on medicinal matters and the indigenous people of South America; his name appears in numerous medical journals of the period.

Reinhart Frans Cornelius van Lansberge (1804-1873), whose signature authorizes this document, was the Governor-General of Suriname from 1 August 1859 to 29 June 1867. Slavery was abolished in the Dutch West Indies during his governorship. Previous to this post, he was Governor of Curacao from 1855 to 1859, and formerly Dutch Consul-General Venezuela.

Doctor Charlouis, whose original signature is found to verso, received 1935 guilders with this promissory note effective 15 August 1865. This figure represents the release of approximately 6 slaves. A manuscript annotation to upper left margin, penned in a West Germanic language, refers to the abolition act: “Opheffing der slavernij… 1863” [Elimination of slavery… 1863]. Red ink annotations reveal that this document was registered on 16 September 1865, and signed by a Geregistreerde referendaris J.C. Jaunen [registered secretary]. Additional annotations to the upper margin suggest that the funds were cashed in on 16 October 1865 “Betaalbaar te Amsterdam” [paybale to Amsterdam]. Also interesting to note, two of the signed annotations to verso, those of Charlouis and a witness, make reference to German plantation owner, banker Wilhelm Eduard Ruhmann at Paramaribo. As such, this transaction was most likely transacted at Surinaamsche Bank which had been founded earlier the same year, and the funds dispatched from there to the Dutch government in The Netherlands.

The Netherlands abolished the Atlantic slave-trade in 1814. However, localized slavery continued for over half a decade. Slavery was finally abolished in Suriname and the Dutch West Antilles on 1 July 1863 with the Emancipation Act. On that day, about 35,000 slaves in Suriname and 12,000 slaves on the Dutch islands in the Caribbean were given their freedom, or rather a modified version of freedom.

Freed men in Suriname come under state supervision for ten years with a mandatory employment contract on the plantations. The slave owners received financial compensation from the government upon releasing their slaves to this system. The Dutch government paid 300 guilders per slave to the owner for the “lost property”. (In the Dutch East Indies, payments were far lower, 50 to 350 guilders depending on the age of the slave). The abolition of slavery was referred to as ’emancipation’. Parties were organized in which King William III was presented as a key figure and benefactor of the freed slaves.

Wilhelm Eduard Ruhmann/Rühmann (Mecklenburg, 1816 – February 16, 1872) was a plantation owner, bank manager and politician in Suriname. He was born the son of L.V. Rühmann and L. Völschow. He spent a large part of his life in Suriname. In 1857 he followed P.R. Planteau as a member of the Colonial Council and a year later Ruhmann also became the consul of Mecklenburg-Schwerin in Suriname. During the emancipation in 1863 he was co-owner of, among others, the Waterland, Picardy and Frederikslust plantations and he was also an administrator of plantations.

He was director of the Surinaamsche Bank in Paramaribo from its foundation in 1865, holding that title for 6 years. Around 1866 Ruhmann was also a member of the Board of Directors of Suriname for some time. In 1871 the governor appointed him a member of the Colonial States but less than a year later he died at the age of 55.

Population in the town of Paramaribo greatly increased after 1873, when former enslaved people who had been freed in 1863 were allowed to stop working for their former masters and leave the sugar plantations.

Ancient Chinese Junk
Oil Painting

Unique Vessel
Painted Eyes for Seeing
Bamboo Battened Sails
Elm wood Rudder

A Striking and Stylish Chinese Junk Oil Painting With its two strong sails inscribed with Chinese lettering by the artist, this handsome artisan work memorializes the traditions of the ancient Chinese junk, by highlighting the revolutionary and long-standing sailing designs as well as a fascinating superstitious practice. The vessel features painted eyes and an open stern with far reaching tips which exudes speed. A dragon-like flag flies from one of the masts. A stern rudder helps steer through the rough waters of the harbour, which is surrounded by mountains, possibly representing Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour. The peaked and winged-style stern of the vessel suggests speed and agility at high seas. Five Chinese seafarers onboard are wearing traditional dress.

Original oil painting on thick cardstock, created circa 1901-1910, measuring approximately 25,5 x 20,5 cm.  Indication at perimeters of previous framing, otherwise in very good condition.

The Junk was so highly preferred in Eastern Asia that it saw very few modifications through the ages and is still used in China today.

Chinese pirates and merchants alike favored the Junk over other sailing vessels, for many reasons.

The sails of a Junk were designed so that they can move inward, unlike any other western sailing vessel up until the 19th century. This allowed the ship to sail into the wind while stilling moving forward, rather than trying to sail hundreds of nautical miles to find adequate winds. The sails were strong, being fabricated of canvas, silk, or matting, and were further supported by bamboo battens which reinforced the strength of the sail and made it manageable to roll up during high winds.

The Junk was the first vessel to have a rudder – a revolutionary steering design that would be quickly become adapted on every ship built. In the early days of sail, the direction of a ship had been steered by a single large oar at the stern, controlled by one man. However, the oar was typically made from a thin piece of wood, and would often break from pressure from the water. The rudder on the Junk was made of strong elm wood pierced with several diamond shaped holes (called fenestration), and mounted on a hinge attached to the stern. Although it required up to three men to control during rough seas, it remained firm. It could also be adjusted up and down to compensate for different heights of the water.

Painted eyes: In early days, the Chinese painted an eye on each side of the vessel, near the bow, believing that it would help the boat see where it was headed.